$500 Pure Performance Build Cheat Sheet
This guide was written on 2/19/2025. Over time, this may become out of date and we make no guarantees to keep it updated. This is meant to be used as a tool to go along with the YouTube video, not to be a relevant reference material for years to come.
Parts List
Part Notes and Alternatives
Please reference the YouTube video for my main thoughts about the part selections. These are additional notes to go along with that.
CPU:
  • To save the most amount of money (and get the highest FPS Per Dollar value) then I’d recommend purchasing from Ali Express. Make sure to only buy from a trusted seller with a lot of 5 star reviews, and a seller that has sold at least 50 (ideally 100+) of the CPU you’re looking for. Ali Express usually takes 2-3 weeks for shipping to the United States, but it’s free. CPUs from Ali Express will usually not come with a CPU cooler.
  • If you rather purchase on Newegg or Amazon, that’s completely fine. You’ll just need to add an additional $20-$40 into your budget.
  • The Ryzen 5 5600 is the META play for more budget to mid ranged gaming PCs under around $700 right now. If you don’t want to buy from Ali Express, and you want to stick to a tigher budget, then a new Ryzen 5 5500 from Newegg or Amazon would be OK to use as well. Just note that it performs worse than the 5600, but still pretty well.
  • By being on the AM4 platform, it allows us to spend less money on a cheaper AM4 motherboard, and DDR4 RAM. This gives us more money for the GPU, which is the ultimate factor in higher FPS numbers.
  • The Ryzen 5 5600 is capable of pairing with GPUs better than the RX 5600 XT, so there’s a good chance that it’ll last through the next GPU upgrade. Always verify with benchmarks that it won’t be a bottleneck though.
  • As of early 2025, I am not considering any Intel alternatives at this time. AMD’s Ryzen CPUs offer better value, have better future proofing options, and AMD has a better track record than Intel lately.
CPU Cooler:
  • If you buy the CPU from Ali Express, then you’ll most likely need a separate cooler because they usually don’t come with one. If you buy the Ryzen 5 5600 from Amazon or Newegg, then you can definitely consider just using the stock cooler that it comes with.
  • The Vetroo V5 has been around for a long time and it’s one of the most reliable sub $30 options that includes an ARGB fan. I believe the V5 got a refresh not too long ago, so it definitely includes all of the hardware you’ll need and it’s still a top performing unit in this price range.
Motherboard:
  • Budget AM4 motherboards have been REALLY difficult to find as of the last 3-4 months. My usual favorites like the Gigabyte B450M DS3H WiFi and ASRock B450M AC/R2.0 have been nowhere to be found. This ASUS Prime B450M-A II has been one of the most reliable budget boards to find, and it’s usually in stock at either Best Buy, or on eBay (still sold by Best Buy brand new). This motherboard doesn’t have any bells or whistles, and should only be used if you’re looking for the cheapest possible option that won’t hurt performance, which isn’t a bad idea for this low budget of a build.
  • Important features of this motherboard:
  • Actually in stock
  • 4 RAM slots for upgradeability
  • BIOS FlashBack button
  • RGB header
  • For alternatives, there aren’t many consistent boards available to recommend. If you can find my favorites that I listed above, then definitely grab those. Otherwise you may have to settle for an ASRock B450M Pro4 R2.0 or an ASRock A520M Phantom Gaming 4. Just make sure that it’s mATX if you use the case that I did!
RAM:
  • This GSkill Ripjaws V has consistently been one of the cheapest DDR4 2x16GB 3200MHz CL16 kits available for several months now. That should be your search filter, and almost any brand/kit will work
GPU:
  • The GPU selection got very weird for this project which you hopefully saw in the video. With a $500 build price you should be aiming to spend about $100-$130 for the GPU, and the best possible outcome is usually an RX 5700 XT. I couldn’t find any of those for this video, so I settled on the RX 5600 XT.
  • As I explained in the video though, we actually received a 5700 XT that just had a 5600 XT cooler on top of it. Both cards will definitely work, but if at all possible I would shoot for a 5700 XT. It has 2GB more of VRAM and performs better in every game.
  • My recommendation would be to search on eBay using this search criteria, sort by “Buy it Now” and snipe any card that’s fully working for under $130. If you want to spend a few extra dollars to get a 5700 XT, that would be worth it.
  • I would not recommend trying to buy a new GPU for this price range build. All brand new GPUs under $150 (or more) provide very little value and wouldn’t be worth the money. Only buy used for this price range, otherwise save up a bit more money so you can afford a ~$200 RX 6600. That would pair very nicely with a Ryzen 5 5600.
SSD:
  • The Teamgroup MP33 is a great budget option, and for a Pure Performance style of gaming PC we don’t want to spend any more money here than we have to. A better and faster SSD can be beneficial, but it doesn’t move the needle in terms of FPS numbers which is what the priority was for this build. I would recommend searching for the cheapest 1TB NVMe Gen 3 (or 4) drive, and consult the SSD Tier List for all of the information you need.
  • Aside from the MP33, for alternatives I’d also consider the Patriot P310, Silicon Power A60, or the Klevv CRAS C710. All of them are about the same in terms of price and performance, so I would recommend just getting whichever one has the best deal.
PSU:
  • The MSI MAG A550BN has consistently been one of the best Tier C budget units on the market for the better part of a year now. It’s not modular, but for budget builds like this the only important metric is the Tier Rating.
  • If you didn’t already see, there’s a brand new PSU Tier List that’s a much more updated version compared to the previous Cultists list. For budget builds like this, I wouldn’t go any lower than Tier C.
  • For alternatives, always consult the PSU Tier List and I’d recommend getting a 550W+ Tier C, B, or A model. The Apevia Prestige 600W is usually available at a similar price. If you can’t find the A550BN, then the A650BN is usually available for only a few dollars more. MSI also makes the MAG A650BE which is a semi modular unit and also Tier C.
  • For builds like this, the 80+ efficiency rating doesn’t matter much and neither does the modularity. A fully modular design will make the cable management a bit easier, but the case that I selected has a big PSU basement so it’s not difficult to stuff the excess cables down there.
Case:
  • The case is always the most subjective option in a gaming PC, and you absolutely do not need to go with the one I used in the video. If you choose an alternative, you may need to make some tweaks to the cooling solution, as well as the motherboard size.
  • The case I used for the video was the the DIYPC ARGB-R1-BK. It’s a mATX sized case, and also comes with 4 preinstalled fans. This means that if you go with something else, I’d recommend choosing a mATX sized alternative, and preferably one that includes 3 or 4 fans. Otherwise you’ll have to add extra fans to your shopping list.
  • The reason why I like this case a lot is simply the price. For $52 it’s packing a ton of value with the fans, design, and even a USB C port on the front. You won’t be able to use it with a budget B450 motherboard unless you buy a USB 2/3 adapter, but there’s still a ton of value outside of just that. I actually just bought a bunch of these for an upcoming Limited Edition Build on ZTTBuilds. 🤫
How to Assemble
You can watch my full step-by-step PC building video below. This was extracted from the Twitch livestream when I built this PC to only include the relevant PC building steps.
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If that video doesn’t provide enough support for building a PC, then I would recommend watching this “How to Build a PC, the last guide you’ll ever need! (2024 Update)” video from Linus Tech Tips. This is a generic build guide tutorial that will help no matter which parts you choose to go with.
Cable Management Guide
The starting point of cable management in the DIYPC ARGB-R1-BK isn’t the best. Because of the 4 preinstalled ARGB fans that are daisy chained together, there’s a huge mess of cables to start with. The PSU basement is beefy though, so if you need extra space feel free to stuff them down there. There are plenty of spots for zip ties though if you want to make it tidy like I did.
After the motherboard was installed, cable management remained to be pretty simple but a little tedious. I utilized the zip tie tie down points that are available, which are circled in red. In a case like this with a ton of extra cables, this would be a mess if you didn’t utilize them. The picture below still doesn’t even look that great, but it’s at least managed to a functional level.
Additionally, the blue square is part of the ARGB daisy chain. You’ll want to not only tie in the rear fan into the front fans, but also the CPU cooler fan as well. This way, the one button on the front panel controls all 5 fans at the same time. You need to ensure that all 5 fans are sequentially daisy chained together.
Finally, the one cable that will still be unplugged at this step is the SATA power which I’m pointing to in the picture. By plugging a power supply connector into here, this provides the lights on all 5 fans and allows you to use that button to control them.
And finally after the power supply and GPU were installed, the main thing to concentrate on is keeping the 24 pin, 4+4 pin, and GPU cable tight in the back with straight lines. The 4+4 CPU power cable can easily run down on the right hand side with a couple of zip ties. The 24 pin can route back traditionally in the middle with the zip ties. Although I could have opted to move this cable in the cable channel on the left side.
And finally after the power supply and GPU were installed, the main thing to concentrate on is keeping the 24 pin, 4+4 pin, and GPU cable tight in the back with straight lines. The 4+4 CPU power cable can easily run down on the right hand side with a couple of zip ties (green box). The 24 pin can route back traditionally in the middle with the zip ties (orange box).
Most of the excess cables are stored in the PSU basement. Don’t forget to plug in that SATA power connector for the ARGB fans.
One additional note is that because the power supply only comes with double 6+2 PCIe connectors for the GPU (as opposed to a single cable), I zip tied the excess 6+2 strand in the front. If you don’t do this, that open connector will be hanging there disconnected which looks weird. It’s fine if you do this, but I wanted to make it extra tidy for aesthetics.
BIOS Setting Adjustments
BIOS updated to the latest version - 4622 (11/14/2024)
Secure Boot set to Windows EUFI Mode
TMP2.0 Enabled
CSM Disabled
Re-Bar Enabled
4G Encoding Enabled
DOCP - 3200MHz (RAM)
Monitor Recommendations
For an $500 Pure Performance build, I think a 1080p 144Hz+ display is what you should shoot for. This build isn’t close to hitting 1440p numbers, so I would stay in 1080p for this one.
Here are some of my favorite options:
1080p Monitors
Koorui 24E3 - 24” 1080p 165Hz 1ms IPS
AOC 24G4E - 24” 1080p 180Hz 1ms IPS
Windows Installation Guide
Standard Installation
Windows installation is the same process from PC to PC. There isn’t anything specific about this PC
Creating the USB Drive
I always recommend setting up a Windows 11 USB thumb drive, but you’ll need to utilize a working computer.
Here is a video explaining how to set up the USB thumb drive.
Installing Windows 11
Here is a video explaining how to install Windows 11 after the thumb drive is set up.
Additionally, here is another tutorial from the YouTube channel Crater.
Post-Installation Steps
Once Windows is installed, I recommend:
  • Removing bloatware
  • Updating GPU drivers manually
  • Fully updating Windows
Performance Metrics
For detailed benchmarking results, including gameplay footage from various games, please see the full benchmarking video linked in the description of the main YouTube video. The synthetic/canned benchmarking scores below provide additional information:
  • 3DMark Time Spy: 9,082
  • 3DMark Steel Nomad: 2,099
  • Superposition (DirectX, 1080p High): 12,438
  • Cinebench 2024 CPU Multi: 628
  • Cinebench 2024 GPU: 804
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